Currently on display at The Museum of FIT is the exhibition Expedition: Fashion From the Extreme. The exhibition explores how the discoveries during ocean, space and mountain expeditions influenced fashion. During the 17th century people began to explore the natural world and by the 19th century crucial parts of science such as biology were being discovered. Author of Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea and creator of science fiction, Jules Verne impacted society with his stories that were based on the latest discoveries. While Charles Darwin’s work was also impactful on the way society viewed the natural world. Science, new worlds discovered as well as indigenous people and their culture inspired western fashion for eternity.
- Silver and Fur Ensembles: Left, Donald Brooks silver embossed snakeskin and mink evening coat circa 1971. Right: Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi, Rome. Silver synthetic and fur coat, circa 1985.
- Jean Paul Gaultier suede ensemble F/W 2001. Jean Paul Gautier red silk and faux fur reversible puffer coat. Le Grand Voyage collection f/w 1994.
- Matthew Henson’s North Pole Expedition Suit. Inuit Blue fox furans polar bear pants, 1909. Hanson was an African American explorer of little education. But is natural intellect helped him become one of the greatest explores of the time and learn the Inuit language.
- Middle: Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel 2010. Tweed and faux fur suit F/W 2010. Right: Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, mans faux fur ensemble f/w 2010.
- Left: Sacai-off white cotton, wool, silk and lamb fur ensemble F/W 2009. Right: Issey Miake, White wool/cotton felt and synthetic fur jacket. F/W 1997
- Madame Alex Gres (Madame Gres) Wool knit and wolf fur ‘apes ski ensemble 1969.
Arctic: The very first extreme exploration took place during the 1880-1920’s with the Heroic Age of Arctic Exploration. Explorer Robert Leary returned in 1909 to America wearing fur originally worn by the indigenous Inuit people of the North Pole. By 1919 designers in New York showcased fashion influenced by Siberian objects in the American Museum of Natural History. WWII created a need for arctic inspired clothing for soldiers whose uniforms and parka’s were influenced by the Inuit people of the North Pole. Once the 1960’s arrived fashion publications such as Vogue sent models to the Arctic to (photo) shoot amongst the icebergs in the latest fashions. In the 1990’s the parka took on various forms during the eras hip-hop rise. Both designers, such as Tommy Hilfiger and rappers adopted the coat as a statement piece that eventually became an everyday coat. The exhibition showcases both indigenous Arctic fashions and modern-day Arctic inspired pieces.
- Isaac Mizarhi, 1994 NY. Silk taffeta, cotton and down ” lumberjack” evening ensemble. F/W
- Siberian funerary coat. Circa 1900.
- Yohji Yamaoto. Brown suede evening dress and fur collar, f/w 2010
- Yohji Yamamoto, Tokyo, f/w 2000. Red wool, silk, cashmere and coyote fur ensemble.
- Yohji Yamamoto, black silk evening dress. F/W 2010.
- Coat on the left: Military MI-51 ” fishtail” parka. 1951 Ensemble on the right: Joseph Altuzarra. nylon parka, rabbit fur vest, and synthetic dress. F/W 2011.
- Joseph Altuzarra. Green nylon fishtail parka, wool and synthetic suit. F/W 2011
- Joseph Altuzarra. Wool Parka, cotton, synthetic and metal dress. F/W 2012.
- Left: Eddie Bauer, Seattle. White cotton, goose down-filled Skyline jacket. 1936. Right: Eddie Bauer, Seattle Beige nylon, goose down filled jacket and pants, 1940’s.
- Charles James 1937. James was the first designer to create a high fashion down filled jacket.
- Eddie Bauer, Seattle 1953. Red “Kara Koram” goose down parka worn by explorer Pete Scheming in the 1953 K2 mountain ascent.
- “Kara Koran” (Mt. Everest) red nylon and wolverine trim parka and blue pants. 1967. Eddie Bauer, Beige insulated mittens, circa 1963.
I will have two other post on the Safari, Space and Deep Sea parts of the exhibition as well. Expedition: Fashion From the Extreme is open until January 6, 2018 at the Museum at FIT.
T.S.
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